Adventures of a Gringa

ESPN on Rio's World Cup Preparations

While news stories about Rio's preparations for the World Cup are a dime a dozen and seem to pop up at regular intervals, I'm sharing this report from ESPN that's a tidy wrap-up of some of the issues surrounding the city's efforts for 2014. While it's not completely all-encompassing, the report touches on many of the challenges and controversies stemming from the World Cup preparations, and is especially useful for those who haven't been following the events as closely.

Another interesting thing about the report is that those interviewed really are some of the ones to watch for World Cup and Olympics analysis leading up to the games, and not just random talking heads. There's Julia Michaels of RioReal Blog, and if you read this blog, you surely know her already; Christopher Gaffney, an American professor at UFF in Rio who is studying the city's mega-event preparations and writes Hunting White Elephants; Rio state Congressman Marcelo Freixo, one of the city's political leaders intent on rooting out corruption and preventing abuses before the games; and veteran Brazilian sports journalist João Máximo, who writes a column for ESPN. They're a great group to follow for coverage and analysis of Rio's mega-event preparations, and you can access their blogs and/or Twitter accounts by clicking the links above.

Ten Things to Know About Brazil's World Cup

I'm a little hesitant to write about the World Cup--it seems to be one of the international media's favorite topics when it comes to Brazil, usually a report on Brazil's delayed preparations every month or so. But the latest development seems to be a tipping point in the relationship between FIFA and Brazilian organizers, and one that reveals many of the issues surrounding the event.

After ongoing tensions, FIFA's General Secretary Jerome Valcke finally lost his cool on Friday and vented his frustrations about Brazil's progress. It wasn't exactly a surprise, although he'd made very positive about Brazil's preparations during his January visit. Now, he had this to say:

On overall preprations: "I don't understand why things are not moving. The stadiums are not on schedule any longer - and why are a lot of things late? The concern is nothing is made or prepared to receive so many people. I am sorry to say but things are not working in Brazil. Our concern is nothing is made or prepared to receive so many people because the world wants to go to Brazil."

On comparing it with the last World Cup: "That's the big difference between South Africa in 2010 and Brazil. The people don't care about security, they don't care about the weather - it's amazing. In South Africa it was winter, it was dark. In Brazil the weather will be perfect. But I can tell you from the other side of the organization it is not exactly that."

On Brazil's possible motives: ''What is the World Cup for Brazil: To organise the World Cup or to win the World Cup? I think it's to win the World Cup. South Africa's priorities were to organize the World Cup not win it. It seems all Brazil wants to do is win it, and that must change."

On the World Cup law, the legal framework FIFA requires for Brazil to hold the event: "We should have received these documents signed by 2007 and we are in 2012."

His advice? "You have to push yourself, get a kick up the backside and just deliver this World Cup."

Naturally, that did not go over well in Brazil.

Sports Minister Aldo Rebelo said the Brazilian government would no longer recognize Valcke as a representative of FIFA, and demanded a new interlocutor. He said Valcke's comments were "unacceptable" and that the World Cup law, due to be voted on this week after innumerous delays, was coming along at a "responable pace." On Twitter, he said: "I still claim that FIFA are not above the sovereignty of Brazil and I will continue to fighting for the sovereignty of our country."

In response, Valcke dismissed the minister's anger. “I made one comment saying things are not working well and I for once say exactly what is happening in Brazil. If the result is they don’t want to talk to me anymore, I’m not the guy they want to work with, then that’s a bit puerile.”

It's unclear what will happen this week but evidently, the gloves have come off. FIFA has admitted that it has no Plan B, and that the games will be held in Brazil. But given that the Confederations Cup will be held next year and preparations are still behind, it seems possible that this sparring is not over.

With this in mind, I thought it might be helpful to keep some things in mind about what is really going on with the World Cup, and what's at stake.

10. Brazil was the only country to vie for the 2014 World Cup. FIFA had decided that it would be held in South America under its rotation system, but Brazil was chosen by default after being the only country to offer to host the games. Though Brazil had to meet FIFA's requirements in order to be chosen--ranging from stadiums to transportation to security--it also faced no opposition. So initially, it was easier to focus on celebrating the country's selection as host (especially after it was also chosen to host the Olympics), rather than be immediately held accountable for what it had actually agreed to do.

9. Brazil's selection as World Cup host came during the high-flying years of President Lula's second administration, just at the very beginning of Brazil's "emergence" on the world scene. It was a somewhat easier political choice to make because Lula was extremely popular and it was not something his administration would have to deal too much with; much of the responsibility would fall to the next president. (That's even more valid given the delays in preparations, since FIFA claims more could have been done as soon as Brazil was chosen). My sense is that the current government has felt that the Cup is an inherited responsibility that it will have to make the best of given the circumstances.

8. The Brazilian government is using billions of dollars in public funds to build stadiums and infrastructure for the World Cup. This essentially means that in theory, Brazilian taxpayers are paying for the event, though they never had a say in whether they wanted the event or not. Through 2013, the government estimates spending of around $100 billion on World Cup and Olympics construction, $258 billion on construction, and $477 billion on infrastructure. Depending on the aftermath of the Cup, this could become a tricky political issue during the 2014 presidential elections--or a potential boon, too.

7. One of the great potential legacies of the World Cup could be improvements to infrastructure. President Dilma Rousseff is heavily invested in focusing on infrastructure, though her bigger concern is infrastructure that aids long-term development, not the games (which for Brazilians is a good thing). But it's unclear what will happen in the next two years, with many projects already delayed. It seems possible that intracity transport could be finished in a number of cities. Airports across the country are undergoing renovations, and airport privatization has begun on three airports. But it's unclear if major airport reforms will be done before 2014, and a much-heralded bullet train between Rio and São Paulo has quietly been delayed until 2022.

6. The World Cup offers ripe opportunities for corruption. It happened during the Pan American Games in 2007, and it's already happening again with the World Cup. Overspending is the key issue, and it's been happening across the board. While Dilma's efforts to control corruption within her cabinet have offered hope, it's entirely possible that abuses are still happening from the local level all the way up to the federal level. The World Cup also has been an opportunity for abuses against favela communities located in areas slated for construction.

5. Brazil may have overextended itself by picking 12 host cities. It's not without good reason; since much of the country's big events are often concentrated in a few cities, it seemed more fair to spread the event throughout the country, giving less developed cities a chance at more investment and time in the spotlight. It's also a political opportunity for the chosen states and municipalities. But some of the smaller cities may really not be ready in time, and from a logistical point of view, it will be difficult for fans--even Brazilians--to attend games in multiple cities, especially cities like Manaus and Cuiabá. FIFA is aware of this and it seems possible it could cut one or two cities if they aren't ready in time, though it would be a big PR hazard.

4. FIFA and Brazil clearly have different expectations, at least in what's evident to the public. FIFA is a corporation that wants to make money and have a succesful event, and expects Brazil to live up to its legal obligations. Brazil also wants to use it as an opportunity to make money through investments and tourism, but also expects FIFA to play by its rules. In other words, both sides have unrealistic expectations about who gets to call the shots. Clearly, more compromise will be necessary, though neither side is happy about it.

3. Brazil must pass FIFA-approved legislation about the World Cup as a condition of hosting the Games. The so-called World Cup law has suffered delays for years, and problems with the bill have seen it stuck in the House of Representatives until now (another vote is expected next week). FIFA has made certain demands, including legalizing alcohol at soccer stadiums, only allowing FIFA-authorized sales of merchandise in and around stadiums, and making efforts to control piracy. Brazil, on the other hand, wants to ensure that discounted tickets are set aside for students, seniors, and other groups, something that FIFA has had to make compromises on. Overall, the most sensitive issue is if the bill violates Brazil's sovereignty, something that several politicians have complained about and an issue many Brazilians are sensitive to.

2. Brazilians are very sensitive to foreigner's perceptions of their country, and even more sensitive to outside criticism. One would assume that FIFA officials have realized this by now, and perhaps took advantage of this fact by hoping to embarrass and pressure the government with Valcke's comments last week. Still, it's not a very good tactic, and is only going to make the tense relationship even more acrimonious as the games draw closer. The international press has added fuel to the flames by constantly criticizing Brazil's preparations, and will continue to until the World Cup begins. FIFA officials should take note of Brazil's diplomatic techniques if they plan on better cooperation, and are going to have to accept the fact that whatever timelines were agreed upon will probably not happen, but that enough will be done in time to ensure the games can take place.

1. The World Cup is an incredibly important source of pride for Brazil. It represents Brazil's rise to power and its ascendance on the world stage, as well as celebrating its economic growth, reduction of poverty, and the resulting sense of optimism. It's an important part of the Brazil brand abroad, a stamp of approval from the international community. It's also a way to try to banish its demons; the last time the country hosted in 1950, it was also celebrating a new, post-war era, but lost to Uruguay in the last game, a devastating defeat still considered a national trauma. Pulling off a successful event with minimal conflict and scrutiny is just important to Brazil's sense of self-worth as trying to win the Cup. It's still unclear what the legacy of the games will be, but for both FIFA and Brazil, there's no turning back now.

Senna

There's a saying that God is Brazilian, but few Brazilians come close to deity status like Ayrton Senna. While Formula 1 is a popular sport in Brazil, it's not on the same level as soccer, but mention Senna to any Brazilian and you'll visibily see the change in his or her expression: his face will soften, and he may get a far-away look in his eyes. He'll likely be able to remember where he was when he found out about Senna's passing, like Americans can recall about JFK's death. There are many beloved national figures, but Senna is something between an idol and a martyr, an adored brother-like figure in the grande família brasileira. It's hard to provide an adequate comparison, but it's like if Michael Jordan had died young and tragically at the height of his career. Learning about Senna is helpful for understanding Brazilian culture, and being able to speak about him is an excellent way to make a personal connection with Brazilians.

So if you haven't seen Senna yet, go and find it as soon as you can. (You can find upcoming screenings and release dates here) The documentary about Senna's rise to fame was recently released in the U.S., Australia, Europe, Canada, and Mexico, and is coming out on DVD soon in the UK. It has broken box office records in the UK, U.S. and Australia, and won the Audience Award at Sundance this year. As a documentary alone, it's spectacular, skillfully weaving dozens of interviews with carefully selected excerpts from hundreds of hours of archival footage.

It's hard to really understand Senna's stature from just reading about him, and the film very clearly shows how it was not just his victories that made him a hero, but also his determination, patriotism, honesty and humility. While the movie really is focused on racing (I was disappointed there wasn't as much focus on his life in Brazil, or the context of his fame in Brazil), it really gives you a real appreciation for his appeal. It ranges from touching to hilarious, inspiring to infuriating, and while it ends in tragedy, the filmmakers make sure to explain the positive results of his legacy.

Perhaps one of the best scenes is when Senna wins the Brazilian Grand Prix for the first time, a personal victory to win at home. He was focusing so intensely on finishing first that he gripped his whole body to the point that he actually passed out, and when he came to, had excrutiating pain all over. It was the moment that Senna stood on the podium, grimacing in pain as he painstakingly lifted the trophy above his head, that I really understood his hero status, beyond his titles, charity, and racing fame. One of the repeated themes throughout the movie were Brazilians remarking how Senna was one of the "only good things Brazil has" and how happy he made Brazilians with his success, and how proud he made them feel. At a time of economic and political turmoil, Senna's international wins in a sport dominated largely by Europeans were clearly considered a national victory, and every win was a win for all Brazilians. I wonder what he would think of Brazil now, now that athletic champions are just a small part of so many triumphs making Brazilians proud.

Deadly Games

Every so often, a story will come out in the American or European media about the World Cup and Olympics preparations in Rio. Sometimes, it's about how things aren't going quickly enough and that projects won't be finished in time, and other times it's about how favela residents are being evicted to make way for a new stadium and new infrastructure projects, like this recent story from Reuters. A few weeks ago, Amnesty International joined in, when the secretary general spoke out about concerns for favela residents being evicted. It seems almost cyclical, and it will probably continue all the way to 2014.

But this week, a somewhat unusual story came out. It wasn't from one of the big outlets, and it wasn't inspired by a sound bite from an official. It was a long piece from ESPN, but had almost nothing to do with sports. It was devoted almost entirely to a recent history of violence in one of Zona Norte's favelas, near the city's (and country's) largest stadium. Entitled "Deadly Games," written by Wright Thompson, it featured an image of a BOPE officer and his gun against a background of a favela, and Maracanã smack in the middle. The article aims to shock, especially those who unfamiliar with Rio realities. Here's how it begins:

"A white cross rising above the Macacos slum marks the spot where people are burned alive. A starving horse, his ribs poking out, is hitched close by with a thin rope. A nearby soccer field is dotted with pieces of melted rubber. No games are played here. The Amigos dos Amigos gang that runs this favela has a ritual: Members stack tires around their enemies, pour in gasoline and light the tires on fire. This is called microwaving. Black smoke rises into the air. At a school down the hill, near the famous soccer stadium where the 2016 Olympic opening ceremonies will be held, the students hear the screams and cover their ears. This is Rio in real life."   [Read the story in its entirety here]

The article goes on to talk about the war in the Morro dos Macacos favela, as well as touching on the disconnect between the vision of the city marketed for the upcoming Olympics and World Cup and the violence in the city's slums. While it's on the sensationalist side, and pretty pessimistic to boot, it's really well written and largely sticks to the facts. If it weren't for the great writing, it would almost feel like the script for a violent video game or a bad action movie.

Since the article criticized Brazil, the repercussions were quick, and much to be expected. The article generated hundreds of comments, and several dozen articles in the Brazilian media were dedicated to it, including the major outlets like Globo, Folha, and EXAME.

Still, Rio's violence is hardly a secret, and the government's efforts to combat drug trafficking and organized crime have made international headlines in the last year or so. While I tend to agree that things may go back to the way they were after the Olympics are over, I disagree that there's so much concern for security during the actual games. It's likely the city will be safest during the World Cup and Olympics, when the government will mobilize its resources to ensure the safety of visitors. It's possible the army or military police may even occupy some of the favelas during the games, like they've done in the past. It doesn't seem fair, but it's happened before: peace in Rio in 2014 and 2016 will be para inglês ver, and it's very likely that like during past events, including the 2007 Pan Am Games, everything will go smoothly and everyone will go home happy. Cariocas are hoping the changes made in preparation for the games will remain past 2016, but like Mr. Thompson, plenty are skeptical. I'm all in favor of being realistic, but it never hurts to have a little optimism.

Pelada New York Premiere

No, this has nothing to do with nudity, but it is good news for futebol fans! Pelada, the wonderful documentary about soccer in Brazil and around the world, is coming to New York! Gwendolyn, one of the filmmakers, was nice enough to send me the info so I could share it with all of you. The screening is coming at the end of September, so mark your calendar!

 

NEW YORK PELADA PREMIERE
with an introduction by Ethan Zohn
plus Q&A with directors
Ryan White and Gwendolyn Oxenham

Tuesday, September 21st - 8pm
Legends Bar & Restaurant
*Doors open at 7pm for food and drinks.  Kids welcome.
Seating is first come, first serve-so come early for seats!
6 West 33rd Street
New York, NY 1001-3321
212-967-7792

Partial proceeds will go towards Grassroots Soccer,
a non-profit which uses the power of soccer
in the fight against HIV/AIDS

Buy tickets here

 

Interview with Gwendolyn Oxenham

After falling in love with Pelada, the documentary about soccer around the world, I got in touch with the filmmakers and was excited to hear back. One of the stars of the film, Gwendolyn, traveled the world chasing pick up games, was kind enough to answer some questions I had after watching the movie, specifically about Brazil and the experience of making a documentary.

In case you missed the post about the movie, here's a quick summary:

Proof that you don't need a big budget to make a great movie, this documentary follows two former soccer players in their mid-twenties. Somewhat lost after graduating from college and giving up on professional soccer careers, they decide to travel the world playing pick up games, and make their way through South America, Africa, the Middle East, Europe, and parts of Asia.

The filmmakers won me over quickly by starting their world tour in Rio de Janeiro, but also when they reveal that they have both lived in Brazil and speak Portuguese. The rest of the Latin American tour takes them to Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, and Peru, where they play with prison inmates, indigenous women high in the Andes, the inner city of Buenos Aires, and on the salt flats. [Read the full post here]

Interview with Gwendolyn Oxenham

1. In the film, you mention that you briefly played in Brazil. What was your experience like? Was there anything particularly different about playing there as opposed to in the US?

Playing in Brazil was an amazing experience:  I spoke zero Portuguese and my teammates spoke zero English so it was a little bit like being in a giant game of charades.  I would just put on whatever clothes my roommate put on, no idea where we were going or what we were doing.  Karen would speak to me in Portuguese and I'd speak to her in English and we'd just pretend like we understood each other.  I couldn't even pronounce her name right (can't roll my Rs) so whenever I'd try to find her no one would have any idea what I wanted.

My teammates and coach were very kind to me--and they kept trying to teach me how to samba even though they must have been discouraged by my lack of rhythm.  They also had more creativity than I did--they were better at the ability to improvise on the field.  And like the American stereotype, I was better at running and fitness.  We'd also juggle a lot and I was by far the worst at that. 
 
2. Tell me a bit more about your experience filming in Brazil. There are scenes in Rio and Sao Paulo, and what looks like Maranhao. Other than Rio and SP, where else did you film?

The beach city where we drank caipirhinas made out of hail was in Guarda do Embau.  Ryan (the co-director behind the camera) had family in Bauru and Santos so we went there--the old man game was in Santos.  We also went to Mesquite.

3. What was the process like to get funding for the film? How did you manage to stretch the budget?

We applied for a lot of grants and got sponsored by a non-profit so that all donations were tax-deductible.  Then we wrote fundraising letters to everyone we could think of and raised enough to go to South America.  We always stayed with friends of friends so we didn't usually have to pay for hotel rooms.  And we were really lucky because we got to eat a lot of homemade meals.  Then we had an investor for Africa and Europe but when the economy crashed we lost our funding.  We got really lucky and won $10,000 worth of editing equipment that allowed us to finish our film.  We lived with friends and just moved the computers between our apartments and sat huddled on each others beds as we finished the thing.

4. Do you plan on having any screenings in Brazil, or trying to distribute the film there?

Yes!  We just need to get Portuguese subtitles and we don't have any money to pay for a translator. 

5. Out of all the countries you visited in the film, which one would you most like to go back to?

Luke and I both lived in Brazil before the film and we talk a lot about going back.  I also loved Marseilles, France and Montevideo, Uruguay.

6. I really liked the theme about women in soccer. Do you have any updates on the women from the film, like Ronaldinha or the women in Iran?

The last we heard about Ronaldinha was that she was on the youth national team. I think Globo TV did a little profile on her recently that even had her mom in it.  The women in Iran recently got to play against some German players which they were really excited about--I email with Niloofar periodically.

If you haven't seen Pelada yet, watch it now!

Brazil at the Meadowlands

Eli and I were lucky enough to be able to go to the Brazil vs US game this week, to watch Brazil's new coach try out new players and to see most of the US's World Cup squad go head to head in a friendly match. Brazil, as to be expected, came out the winner 2 to 0, bringing back some of the beautiful game sparkle that was missing from the seleção during the World Cup. Even though we were high up, I could see some of the fancy footwork and moves, and it was so much fun to watch.

Plus, the crowd made for great people watching: tons and tons of Brazilians, a surprising number of US fans (and hardcore ones at that), and a somewhat unexpectedly large group of Americans rooting for Brazil, decked out in yellow and green jerseys, hats, wigs, and some crazy decor. I didn't realize that so many people loved the Brazil team that much in the US, and it was fun to see I wasn't alone. To boot: the turn out was over 77,000 people, which is kind of a big deal for a soccer game in the US. The new stadium is beautiful, and much to Eli and our friends' glee, we bought the cheapest seats, though they are usually the most expensive in Brazil, since there's a full view of the entire field from above.

The whole experience was like being in Brazil for the night, and it was a wonderful little escape.

 

Photos courtesy of Eli