Adventures of a Gringa

The right to complain - is there a right way?

Yesterday, Sarah Lacy over at Tech Crunch started a massive anti-American Internet intifada by writing about her very bad experience trying to get a visa to Brazil. She had been planned the trip for four months and taking Portuguese lessons, evidently making a concentrated effort to understand the country and language before she left, unlike the typical American businessman. She had intended to scope out IT companies, entrepreneurs, and other potential investment opportunities. An excerpt:

I paid an expediting service hundreds of dollars to ensure I’d be getting this visa, and clearly they’ve been getting an earful from me over the last week. If not for a phone call from the owner this morning finally agreeing to waive the fees I paid them, this post would largely be skewering them. But she assures me no one is getting into Brazil and her week has been even worse than mine. Apparently, the Brazilian government decided to switch to a new computer system for all of its consulate offices and only sent two computers to each office, and not the adequate software to process everything. So everyone has been in a holding pattern. Some consulates aren’t promising any visas before 25 days; others won’t even take an appointment with prospective travelers unless they show documents showing travel in the next 15 days. In fact my visa is the first one the processing firm will get back—that is, if they actually do get it today as promised. They’ve not only been screamed at by me, but loads of business travelers—and even a coach for a national soccer team who can’t get in the country.

Sarah, however, made the big mistake of defacing the Brazilian flag with a little message and using some inflammatory language toward the end of the post directed at Brazilians and the Brazilian government. As a result, she was lambasted by Brazilians and a scattering of other Latin Americans, accusing the US of having an unfair visa policy and claiming she had no right to complain.

Ernesto knows what I'm about to say.

Unfortunately for her, Sarah didn't know that any minor bit of criticism towards Brazil will provoke sheer outrage, and since her post was very accusatory, she actually got death and rape threats (no joke). Defacing any flag is generally a very bad idea, as is blogging when angry and/or making sweeping accusations (trust me, I know from personal experience). So attracting an angry mob wasn't surprising.

But what irritated me about the reaction to her post was that it was so typical, something most gringos who write about Brazil have to deal with, and frankly, the reaction ended up doing an equal  amount of damage to her visa issues. And as you know, I've had to deal with the US visa system for the past 10 months, so I'm well aware of how it works.

First off, Sarah was accused of being irresponsible, and everyone put the blame on her. It could be true she waited until the last minute to apply for her visa, and it could be true she didn't do her research about the complexity of the visa. But what's more important is that the responsible authorities (the visa company, which she paid to do a service, and the Brazilian consulate), ultimately were the ones who failed to do their job. And unlike seasoned travelers to Brazil, she didn't do a jeitinho and apply for the much easier tourist visa instead. She did it the right way.

Second, it is useless to compare apples to oranges. Brazil and the US have totally different visa systems with very different purposes. The US system is a mess, but more importantly, it's not always fair because we have a huge amount of illegal (and legal) immigration. The Brazilian visa system, aside from super quick and easy tourist visas, tends to be inefficient and slow, but also does not have to deal with the sheer mass and constant pressure of millions of immigrants.

But this is even irrelevant when it comes down to the fact that the US system has nothing to do with Sarah's frustration. She did not mention the US system nor does she defend it nor is she responsible for it. If she were from England or France or Australia, she would have received the exact same response, because Brazilians have an extremely hard time accepting criticism about their country (and a harder time when it comes in the form of an angry accusation like Sarah's). And any immigration issues with Latin Americans will always be a sore subject.

This used to happen to me a lot, and still sometimes does: "What right do you have to criticize the Brazilian government/system/economy/judicial system? Yours is screwed up too!" If this illogical double standard were true, I wouldn't have this blog.In fact, I'd delete the whole thing. We have two totally different countries, and criticizing one is valid based on our experiences in that country. There's a huge amount of anti-American sentiment in Brazil (I was sometimes shocked at the things people would say to my face), while the average American largely ignores Brazil until things like this happen; when they do, some Brazilians assume a double standard about who has the right to talk smack about whom, about who's system is worse than the other's.

Sarah wasn't justified in going after the entire country and its people because of what happened. But instead of chastising Sarah for her condescending tone and the flag issue, she was viciously attacked for criticizing Brazil and for coming from a country with an unfair visa system. The idea was basically: "Look at what we have to go through all the time. See how it feels when the shoe is on the other foot?" The problem is, the ha-ha, you deserved it, na-na-na-na-na attitude that a lot of people had just helps xenophobic Americans feel secure in their same attitude towards foreigners in the US. Two wrongs don't make a right.

But as far as I'm concerned, that's not the point. Everyone deserves the right to be angry and upset when they have to face visa issues, no matter where they're coming from or where they're going. I think she's completely justified to criticize the Brazilian consulate, as are any Brazilians are justified to criticize the US consulate after having problems entering the US (and which they do a lot, justifiably). Brazil's biggest hope is its rapidly growing economy, and incidents like this do not encourage foreigners to invest there or consider traveling there on business. Similarly, it's in the US's best interests to speed up visas for investors and businessmen coming to the US. Given my experience with foreigners in Brazil, Sarah's experience isn't new; any visas that involve doing some sort of work in Brazil are much more difficult to get and require much more red tape than a straightforward tourist visa (ask anyone who has ever been transferred to Brazil working at a multinational). Frankly, they're a nightmare to get.  

Had Sarah taken a more diplomatic route, and/or had the response to the post been different (like Fabio Seixas' eloquent open letter), I expect the author might have written an apology. But since her anger was met with outrageous threats and accusations, it made her look like the victim, and it looks like Tech Crunch is standing behind her. And given the criminal nature of a few of the comments (the rape and death threats have been deleted from the site), it didn't make Brazilians look so great. Plus, given the vitriolic response to a valid complaint (albeit masked in ugly words), I doubt Sarah or anyone from Tech Crunch or their affiliates will keep Brazil on their radar for potential opportunities.

The bottom line is that you can't possibly expect people not to get angry about bad experiences they have in Brazil (or anywhere for that matter), and not to share those experiences when they're frustrated. Lashing out at Brazilians and using the Brazilian flag with FAIL on it was in poor taste, and it would be in the author's best interest to remove it from the site. But so were a lot of the comments. And everyone was the loser in this affair: Brazil and its up and coming IT companies, Sarah, and those who made offensive remarks when attacking her. Go ahead and demand she remove the flag, and explain to her about the danger of angry accusations and how they hurt everyone. But don't expect her not to feel justified in her frustration. Because that's a very big double standard.

We're all just humans. We all deserve the right to complain--even about Brazil. But we must always respect each other, or else we will never be able to get along.

An open letter on health care reform

Dear Mr. President, Mr. Vice President, and Democratic Members of Congress:

I'm writing to you today to commend you on your excellent efforts on health care reform and your earnest attempts at participatory democracy. But today, I'm going to beg you, with a little bit of Brazilian-based wisdom, to please stop pandering people who refuse to listen and get the legislation over and done with.

1. Chega! Enough! Please stop trying to convince people who refuse to listen. It's like banging your head against the wall - it will not get you anywhere. When a small child refuses to eat his vegetables, you don't try to explain the nutritional value or why he needs to have a balanced diet or how nutrition affects growth. YOU TELL HIM TO DO IT. (Did I just compare the American people to children? Why yes, yes I did. Because an embarrassing number of them are acting like babies.) This may not sound very democratic, but as our elected representatives, we expect you to do what is best for the majority to ultimately benefit us and our country's future, and most certainly not to do what enables the greatest profit for sleazy corporations.

2. Obvio. It is beyond obvious that our system needs a complete overhaul. Those who disagree do so for one of two reasons: 1, they stand to benefit financially, professionally, or politically from the status quo and from powerful, unrestricted health insurance companies or 2, they lack education, information, experience, or perspective, but mainly the ability and/or desire to acquire accurate information. The constant attempts to educate people who refuse to be educated is not doing any good, and is mainly irritating the rest of us who see this as beating a dead horse that is very clearly gestorben. But since you ask, here's my story. Just to help you beat the horse a little more.

When I moved back to the US from Brazil in May, I did not have health insurance. My parents' coverage ended as soon as I graduated from college. I applied for a state-based, discounted insurance program that gives "cheaper" HMO rates to low-income New Yorkers (since I'm self-employed earning very little, looking for a full time job, but not eligible for unemployment). However, in the first two months I was here, the second of which I had insurance, I spent $600 out of pocket on two emergency procedures, and since June I have spent $900 on premiums. But as it turns out, the HMO had failed to inform me that I was to be given a substandard plan that comes with the state program, and I soon found that my doctors didn't take the insurance, and few did in my county.

So I decided to switch HMOs within the program, and consulted both the program and the HMO for the best way to go about it. I sent in my application on time, and waited and waited. I called, panicky, but they said they had no information on my file and would I please call back next week? Finally, on August 31st, I received a letter in the mail with my application and a letter informing me that my application was denied because they needed one more document for proof of income. I could appeal the denial but coverage would only start in October. (Never mind that my phone number and email were on the application, or that I had sent it at the beginning of the month. No no. That would be too easy). As you are reading this, I am on my way on a thirty mile trek to hand in my application in person to the corporate office, since an extremely kind person at the HMO agreed to override the denial as long as I handed in the missing document and the correct premium (which by the way, has increased by $10 since July). I am praying that the man's promises will actually be fulfilled and that my coverage will in fact start today, so that this month I can get standard care that is two years overdue. And that I will have health care at all. My husband, in the meantime, has no insurance at all, and the stress is weighing down on both of us.

3. A very wise man once said, "O povo sabe o que quer. Mas o povo também quer o que não sabe." This translates as, "The people know what they want. But the people also want what they don't know." This should be your new motto.

We elected you to do what is best for the country and for my generation's future children and grandchildren. Unfortunately, a lot of Americans are simply clueless about what "the best" means. I, however, do know. We did not elect you so that you could buy mansions or yachts or overpriced furniture or vacations for CEOs. We elected you to DO YOUR JOB, which is to make sure the American people are in fact entitled to the right of life, liberty, and pursuit of happiness. Personally, HMOs are currently impeding my right to all three, as they are for millions of Americans. It's time to get into FDR mode. Like him, you have to stand up to the sacred Corporations when they go too far, when they begin to infringe on democracy, which they most definitely have. Like many others, my husband and I decided to make the US our home so that we could have a better way of life here, because we trust in the democratic system, the government's ability to protect its citizens and the ability to use our tax dollars wisely. So go on with it, already. do your jobs!

Thank you and for the love of God, pass the bill already. Já basta. Enough is enough.

Love,

Rio Gringa

Spell check

When you move to a country where the official language is different from your own, you will inevitably face challenges with your name. In Brazil, I told most people to call me Raquel, which just made things easier, and anytime I needed to use my last name, I would have to spell it out letter by letter several times.

Eli has faced similar issues in the US, where he his name is very difficult for English speakers. Some people have tried to pronounce his name right and have managed to quite well, but he mostly tells people to call him Eli (eh-lee) or Eli (ee-lie). He also has to spell out his last name letter by letter.

Unfortunately, he's run into some issues with his name when dealing with bureaucratic paperwork. We went to open a joint bank account, where he was asked to write out his name for how it should appear on the account and his debit card. He wrote it out clearly and showed the bank employee. Then, when we got the debit cards and other information from the bank in the mail, his middle name appeared instead of his last name. We called the bank helpline, and later went into a branch and spoke to a manager. As it turns out, the bank has a rigid policy about last names, in particular one regarding Latin last names (I somehow doubt they know the difference between Spanish and Portuguese ones). It turns out it's a real hassle to change it, since they also have to change it within the system and have this "policy." It's been several weeks and we still haven't managed to resolve the problem.

Also, in the latest correspondence we've received from US immigration, his name was spelled "Eliseo," the Spanish version of his name. He sent them two letters asking them to change it, and on the most recent notification, his name was in fact spelled correctly. Throughout the immigration process, there had never been a problem with the spelling of his name, but I suspect that somewhere along the line, perhaps in an automated part of the process, spellcheck may have actually changed his name to the more commonly known spelling in the US.

In the meantime, the bartending school he attended had no problem in writing out his entire name correctly on his certificate.

Have you ever had this problem living abroad?

Brazilian Bureaucracy

When I read Robyn's joke on Lovely Dharma the other day, it inspired a whole post:

“How many Brazilians does it take to change a light bulb?”

Answer: 10 or more

• One to realize the light bulb needs changing.
• One to drive to the store to buy a new one.
• One to hand him the parking ticket as he enters the store garage.
• One to push the buttons in the elevator as he exits the garage.
• One to greet him/stand security watch at the store entrance
• One to follow him around and help in find the light bulb.
• One to write the receipt for the light bulb.
• One to take the cash or debit card for the light bulb.
• One to put the light bulb in the bag.
• One to stamp his parking ticket.

Government and corporate bureaucracy aside, every day life in Brazil can be very bureaucratic, especially in Rio. Though this day-to-day bureaucracy provides jobs for seemingly simplistic tasks, it sometimes brings into question the efficiency of businesses.

At some juice bars, you have to pay for your order first at the cashier, then bring your receipt to a person at the counter, who then relays the order to another person, and then someone will eventually bring you your food or drink.

At clubs, you are greeted by a person taking fliers, and then give your ID to a person taking down information and giving out cards used to charge drink orders. If the club doesn't use these consumption cards, the person will give you an entrance ticket, which you then give to a person designated solely for ticket taking, usually stationed feet away. At this type of club, you often have to buy a drink ticket at a specific booth, and then bring your drink ticket to the bar to give to the bartender. There are different tickets for different drink prices, so if you don't buy them all at once you have to wait in line for the ticket before ordering another drink. At clubs with consumption cards, there's another series of events. When you leave the club, you give your consumption card to the cashier to pay for your drinks, and then bring your paid cards to another person to make sure you've paid. When they confirm you've paid, you then give a receipt or the cards to another person at the door.

At buffet restaurants, where you pay for your food by the kilo, there's a similar system. At the door, you're greeted by a person giving out a card or ticket used to charge your food. After you get your food, you go to a person with a scale, where your food is weighed. The person marks how much you have to pay, or scans your card. Then you sit down, and a waiter brings drinks. When you're done, you bring your card or ticket to a cashier to pay for your food. The cashier gives you a receipt, which you bring to a person stationed at the door.

The one job that really boggles my mind is the elevator operator. In Rio, I've only seen old-fashioned elevators once (in the Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil), but even some of them have buttons. I've seen dozens of elevator "operators" in modern buildings, from offices to malls, who sit on a chair in the corner and push the buttons. Of all of the bureaucratic jobs I've come across, it's the one I've found to be the least necessary.

five hours

That's how long Eli and I spent at the Federal Police on Thursday. And neither of us has spontaneously combusted.

Due to my visa type, I am required to register with the police in the first month I spend in Brazil. So I wanted to get this over with. We took the bus to the airport, where the PF immigration HQ is located, and got there in about an hour, which was impressive. Every other time I've had to go there, it's been practically empty and I got in and out in no time. Today, however, I got to experience the real joys of Brazilian bureaucracy.

We walked in to the station, which is divided into the Brazilian passports section and the foreigners section. I got my number and saw the current number was 12 behind mine and not moving at all, so I decided to do the efficient thing--walk myself over to the fingerprinting stand and get that part done with ahead of time. There are, of course, no signs telling you this, which would help the line move faster--you just have to figure it out for yourself. While I was getting fingerprinted by a very funny cop, I turned around and there was my American friend, also there to register. Only she had been there two times before without any luck.

So we all sat around chatting and at about 2:15 they called my number, and I practically danced into the office. A very friendly guy took my papers and we made small talk (a must, apparently, at the Federal Police, who just love chatting and are not exactly what you would call "fast"). After he'd fiddled with my papers, he sent me back out to wait for my passport. At about 3, I was called and finally free to leave.

Except I have to go back to pick up my supposed ID card. That is, if it's ready in time. The cop told me that sometimes people leave the country before their cards are ready. So why did I pay R$200, exactly??!!

We took the bus back, and the obvious cure for not eating all day long and for suffering through the five hours at the police station was clearly a trip to our favorite churrascaria. The food there has never tasted so good.

Know it all

What drives me crazy is when I see people making sweeping assumptions about something they know very little about. There's a difference between doing real research, and amassing a bunch of assumptions and "stories" from friends and friends of friends, and it shows. I try not to do this in my blog, though others do not.

Awhile back, I came across a couple blogs discussing teaching and jobs for young gringos in Brazil, and they irritated me because the authors had clearly "heard" things and assumed them to be true, though it has been decades since they were in their twenties or stood in front of a classroom, if at all. So when I found this little article, posted on the DRL blog, I was at least satisfied to see that the main source was a personal experience.

Basically, the article says that people my age assume Brazil is a good place to go for an entry level job out of college, since their economy is doing well and it seems like a place for opportunities. And after assuming this, they go and find this is not actually the case. While I can commiserate, oh CAN I COMMISERATE, I also had to make the point that a) you can't get real jobs because work visas are practically non-existent for entry level jobs b) work visas are nearly impossible to get in order to get a job in Brazil (not one in the US that sends you to Brazil), since the Brazilian government has a clear policy of protecting Brazilian jobs for Brazilians and c) there are certain sectors, like engineering, that do need employees, especially English-speaking ones, so it's not necessarily a lack of jobs that is the problem.

Brazil is a place to go to avoid entry level jobs and to live it up while you still can, so my final thought on the matter is, screw the Brazilian entry level jobs because there will be plenty of awful, tedious ones waiting for you when you get home to the States.

!!$%(%*#!!!

Thank you for your good karma everybody, because it came my way and I have officially received a new visa to go back to Brazil!!!

So I went to the consulate really early, an hour and a half before it opened, but the guy at reception wouldn't let me go up until an hour before, and when I got there, there were already six people waiting. Within fifteen minutes, a huge line had formed. There were mostly Brazilians, chattering in Portuguese and making me happy, with a scattering of gringos. There was a very sorry gringo couple, an elderly father and his middle-aged son, who said they were turned away at the gate at the airport on the way to Brazil, due to some sort of failure to stamp or mark one of the guy's visas. My heart went out to them.

I was kind of surprised by the Brazilians there. About half seemed to be lower middle class, and the other half middle class (by American standards, anyway). How some of these guys made it here is beyond me, and kudos to them. Also, I was convinced two guys, in their late teens, had to be Dominicans, until I heard them speaking Portuguese. I think a lot of Latin immigrants undergo dominicanization in New York City, and god bless them for that!

They opened the consulate a little early, and I nearly jumped for joy when I saw a woman actually assisting people. It turns out she was just giving out numbers. Joyous. So I sat and waited, and waited, and watched as hordes of people who'd been let in early handed in applications and got their passports back, presumably from those "visa services" where you pay someone to do it for you. It was kind of infuriating. I kept seeing consulate workers wander in and wander out, each more intimidating the next. I was terrified and annoyed all at once, which is a very unpleasant combination.

Anyway, after much waiting and teeth-gnashing, they finally called my number. I got an extremely friendly lady, who took two minutes to gather my stuff and tell me to come back the same day. I yelped, "You mean, THIS afternoon?" I must have made the whole waiting room jump. Incredulous, I left and went to work, and then went back in the afternoon, really nervous that the whole same day thing wasn't a good sign.

More teeth-gnashing and hair-pulling later, my number was called. The guy told me to wait at an empty window. Shortly after, the same lovely lady came out with my passport in her hand and personally handed me the brand new visa. For some reason, she had stapled one of my application forms to the passport, which I have to hand in when I get to Brazil, though I'm a bit concerned because aren't you not supposed to staple passports?? When she showed me the visa, I wanted to jump through the glass partition and hug her, but instead I thanked her profusely and hurried out, biting my lip so I wouldn't burst into relieved, happy tears.